How To Repair A Warped Patch Panel
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panel warping due to welding.... i just dont go it !!!
I'm shaving the door handles on a 79 fairmont futura coupe. I told myself i'd be actress careful not to warp the door due to estrus from the welder. So I'd spot spot spot, in different spread out places, then look a couple of minutes until it was cool plenty to lay my palm of my hand on, and then i'd continue, taking my fourth dimension, patiently. and after all that, I notwithstanding take quite some ripple. its non THAT bad really, merely i'chiliad disappointed. Communication on how to prevent this?
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It sounds like y'all did the right affair. Yous kept the distortion to a minimum. There will always be some distortion when you weld. You tin now fix information technology. What has happened is the metal where you welded has shrunk. Call up y'all got those spots where yous welded red hot. At that point there is a pocket-sized surface area that is expanded because of the blood-red hot estrus. It was near liquid at that bespeak and free to assume any shape because it was so soft. Every bit each spot cools down information technology will shrink by thinning until it cools enough that the metal becomes rigid. At that signal it even so keeps shrinking as it cools farther but at present it is stiff and volition offset drawing adjacent cool metal in toward the heat affected area. That is the distortion you see, the reaction of the metal to the stress caused by the shrinking weld. To undo the shrinking y'all can tap the welds with a hammer on dolly. This volition cause the metal to thin at the betoken of touch of the hammer because the metal is sandwiched between the hammer and the dolly. When the metal thins it has to go somewhere and it goes dorsum out from the hammered point to where it was before information technology shrunk. There is a critical signal to attain here. If yous hammer too much you will cause information technology to distort again in the contrary condition that you have now and yous will go distortion from as well much expansion. Sort of a take hold of 22, baloney from welding or baloney from too much fixing. There is a fine signal in the middle where it will be fine. You just need to know when to cease pounding with the hammer, and so my advice is do a few hammer on dolly taps on the welds and evaluate the shape. Work it a little only be ready to terminate the pounding earlier you do more damage. If you aggrandize it too much you lot can shrink it again with estrus.
Bob K
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excellent reply, .... questions:
1) should I flatten the welds out with a grinder earlier I start hammer and dollying?
2) should i exist cautious not to permit the grinder get the console besides hot also, or is in that location fifty-fifty a run a risk of distortion from just grinding..??
Last edited by sircrunch; 01-12-2011 at 01:55 PM. Reason: add together moving picture
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I'm not Bob, but:
Yes, grind the welds apartment before doing hammer/dolly work
No, you shouldn't have to worry nigh heat from grinding...just brand certain yous use a precipitous disc...it works libation.
I e'er idea that was a pretty good looking bodystyle compared to what else was out there at the time...My brother drove a 79 Mercury Zephyr in loftier school. He nevertheless has information technology...in fact equally I drove by his firm this morning and noticed it.
I always thought it would look pretty good with an 83-86 Mustang front end grafted on. Would actually be a fairly straightforward operation (as far as grafts go).
That would be sweetness projection with a mass air 5.0/5 speed transplant, 5 lug conversion, and Cobra irs (which should all be basically commodities-ons)
SamG
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thanks, it is a very different car, almost of the time people either love it or hate it. no in betwixt. they are getting few and far betwixt it seems. Check out this picayune page which shows some of the plans i take for it.
http://www.speedtheorems.com/p/f-bomb.html
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i am kind of leary of the grill myself, but i retrieve it will await great in the paint scheme that i'one thousand going with . I wanted to get abroad from the whole grandma looking grille it had and go with a race inspired type of grille. the whole front grill area including headlight surrounds will be black about likely. I'grand keeping the original grill only in case i don't like it in the terminate. anyone else non similar the grill?
- Point well taken and you said information technology best..."if y'all aren't careful grinding". Sharp disc, continue it moving, etc...
Originally Posted by CoolasIce
I'm gonna have to disagree with SamG. You lot can warp the hell out of the metal if you aren't careful grinding.
I only hope those door glasses were covered when welding on the doors...weld splatter will ruin a glass in a flash!
On the grille? I cant say I'thousand completely sold...I'd similar to see something that makes it expect a lilliputian simpler than original while all the same looking like Ford installed it (or could accept). Maybe something like on this Contrivance Lancer
On the headlights...maybe some one-piece hi/lo beams from late Chevy Celebrity or mid eighties Pontiac Parisienne would fit the bill. Maybe even some from a nineties Chevy PU.
Last edited past SamG; 01-12-2011 at 08:16 PM.
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Now I remember why I only TIG weld. It takes longer, just very little grinding.
Haven't turned the MIG on in over 15 years and the wire is probbly rusted by now.Not sold on your grill at this time, but you should decide subsequently its painted.
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door handles are easiest in my opinion if you cut out a rectangle effectually your handle opening and flange your patch on the ii long sides. That fashion you lot're only open up butt welding the verticle lines. In whatever case, you should take your time. People say i" of hot welding than scatter but with those where you lot gonna get where it's not hot? I normally do an inch or less and play it by ear. My welds take minimal warpage merely I besides take a niggling longer. What I key onto during welding is easy clean upwardly and warpage. Piece of cake make clean up is provided past hot welds for the one" and warpage is handled by taking my time. Sometimes I don't even practise the i" thing. It all depends on the panel. If information technology's a wide open panel similar a door where there's no bodylines or annihilation that can arrive handle the rut better than I probably don't do information technology that way. For something like a rocker you know it'due south gonna take more heat to warp it.
- Yep, Sloooooooooooow is the trick. When I practice something like that I will accept all day, LITERALLY, all mean solar day long to weld it. I SPOT weld it only, we are talking a quarter inch long weld at all-time. On this handle, I MAY to two spots at one time. But realistically, I'll practice 1. Just 1 little quarter inch long weld and walk away. I won't sit there looking at information technology waiting too cool, I would button it every time if I did that. I don't want to be tempted to button it, so I walk away. I take something else to work on and get to that. Then I come dorsum and check to be sure that weld is room temp, non just cool enough to affect, I am talking FULLY cooled. So weld another little quarter inch weld and practice the same. Taking all solar day long, no exaggeration, litterally all day would be the norm. It Can be welded with little to no distortion in this fashion.
door handles are easiest in my opinion if you cut out a rectangle effectually your handle opening and flange your patch on the 2 long sides. That fashion you're only open barrel welding the verticle lines. In any instance, you should accept your time. People say 1" of hot welding than scatter simply with those where you gonna go where information technology's not hot? I usually do an inch or less and play it past ear. My welds take minimal warpage simply I besides take a little longer. What I key onto during welding is piece of cake make clean upwards and warpage. Easy clean upwards is provided by hot welds for the ane" and warpage is handled past taking my fourth dimension. Sometimes I don't even practise the 1" thing. Information technology all depends on the panel. If information technology'southward a wide open panel like a door where there'southward no bodylines or anything that tin can arrive handle the oestrus amend than I probably don't do it that way. For something like a rocker you know information technology's gonna take more oestrus to warp it.
It is the only way you can practice it if you are leaving in the pocket like that. Now, if yous are removing the pocket and butt welding a piece in, that is a unlike story because you can work the metallic (hammer and dolly) equally y'all are welding to control the metal. Merely with the pocket there you tin't do this so being sure that it stays cool is the play tricks.
Brian
- I doubt information technology. Sam'southward advice is on the money (always is) but he is assuming someone would know how to grind metal and weld. Sort of like a belt sander and wood. You can destroy the wood or brand a finish slice with the same tool. Henry
I'one thousand gonna have to disagree with SamG. You lot tin can warp the hell out of the metal if you aren't conscientious grinding.
BTW I looked at your web page. I'd put the original grill back in.
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What exercise yous think about using a absurd clammy rag to quickly cool the metal afterwards the small welds? Is this a bad thought? I practice that sometimes, only am always a little worried nigh using water around a wire welder.
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This is one of the near misunderstood practices in autobody, when you cool a weld you are shrinking the metal, Menstruum.
Brian
- So does using the wet rag brand it shrink more compared to bravado air over information technology or letting it cool slowly?
This is i of the most misunderstood practices in autobody, when y'all cool a weld you are shrinking the metal, PERIOD.
Brian
Source: http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?20145-panel-warping-due-to-welding-i-just-dont-get-it-!!!
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